More a walled Mediterranean-style chateau complex than a classical medieval fortress, Hôtel Castel Brando near the picturesque Cap Corse harbor town of Erbalunga leaves one with the feeling of having stayed in the familiarity of someone’s home.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
Consisting of a central building with three other outlying ones, the 46-room, four-star hotel was built in 1853 and is a wash of old world knick-knacks. Grecian urns, oil and wick lamps, old teapots, candlestick holders, crimson boudoir sofas, Queen Anne chairs and a stately piano decorate its interiors. A large 1825 black and white military print entitled ‘Adieux de Fontainbleu’ sits as a tribute to Corsica’s most famous son, Napoleon Bonaparte.
Historically, CastleBrando is known as an Americans’ house, meaning it was built during the 19th century by Corsicans who returned to their homeland after making their fortunes in the New World. Having been informed that during the later hours the reception desk would be closed, when we arrived after 11p.m., we were deeply relieved to see a note informing us on how to access our room. This meant disturbing a resident watchman who promptly handed us the keys and showed us the way before locking up the main gate.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
The room was one of several adjoining ones at the rear of the complex along a short gravel pathway lined with rose bushes. Inside, the cozy room with a white-painted wood beam vaulted ceiling awaited with a brown-glazed stone-tiled floor, heavy red curtains and a matching sofa. Several framed prints lined the walls, including a classic 18th century scene of an artist at his easel in an ornate drawing room talking to two women servants.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
Outside, a small balcony with chairs and table overlooked a swimming pool screened discreetly by an orange grove. This is one of two outdoor swimming pools Hôtel Castel Brando boasts, the other being larger with an adjoining Jacuzzi close to the main building where breakfast is served.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
Aside from the pool area, most guest activity at Hôtel Castel Brando takes place in the cream-colored, four-story main building with green shuttered windows where some guestrooms are located. On the ground floor next to the reception desk is what could best be described as a comfortable study-cum-sitting room featuring many of the abovementioned knickknacks and several daily newspapers laid out on a central table for guest perusal. A buffet breakfast is served next door inside a room resembling a large glass house. Looking out onto one side is a stone balustrade above the main road through Erbalunga and on the other, an open patio with stone and metal tables laid out under palm and plum trees and a labeled 70-year old olive tree.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
Depending on your level of sociability, the layout of the breakfast room can be either utterly delightful or frightfully intimidating, with tables set quite close together. We found it to be the latter and enjoyed lively conversations with a talkative French couple who entertained us with adventurous tales of travel by camper van and of their experiences as regular visitors to India on business. There is no restaurant on the premises, however, self-service coffee is provided through a Nespresso coffee-maker offering a wide selection of capsules and guests can also fry their own eggs in small pans provided.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
Erbalunga itself is a quaint medieval fishing village with a rustic feel about it and a most pleasant, unspoiled rock wall harbor, a mere two minute walk from Hôtel Castel Brando. For greater variety and a more bustling environment, the town of Bastia is a 20-minute drive away along the coast with restaurants lining its well-developed leisure port, high fortress, and 16th-century bell tower. A drive north along D80 also makes for a stunning coastal excursion through villages such as Macinaggio, Centuri and Nonza to admire the old Genovese towers or to taste the well-known Patrimonio wines.
Hôtel Castel Brando is a great choice for those looking for a property with an authentic feel and yet boasts all the modern amenities of a luxury hotel. Its beautiful location and accessibility to other towns and tourist sights is an added bonus to this elegant mansion.