Perched high amid rambling hills, the location of northwest Corsica’s La Villa Hotel could hardly be more picturesque as it overlooks the ochre-colored citadel of Calvi and the sparkling bay waters of the Mediterranean far below. Sensitive architectural design of terracotta roof-tiles, a beige and ochre color scheme, traditional-style dwellings and natural stone pathways enables La Villa to merge seamlessly into the verdant host environment.

Accommodation options at the 68-room, five-star hotel, a member of Relais & Chateaux, vary greatly. There are 56 rooms within the central hotel complex plus three spacious hacienda-style villas on higher ground, each separated into four apartments, spread along the nearby hillsides. The overall ambiance is most relaxing, with sweet-smelling, eye-catching foliage and flora including olive, fig, pine and cedar trees, as well as sage, rosemary, geraniums and lavender.

Our villa was entitled ‘master suite mer’ and had a large open terrace out front with a decorative wrought iron fence around it that granted splendid views down to the old town lying atop a hill, yachts and fishing boats plying back and forth on the open sea. Across, the stunning bare-rock mountainous terrain surrounded us. The interior of the villa, featuring glazed stone-tile floors with crimson carpets, granted space aplenty.

The large living room area contains two soft, comfortable sofas, an armchair and coffee table. A simple toilet and separate bathroom encompassing both bath and shower toiletries by Anne Semonin of Paris and US-based SkinCeuticals joined the airy bedroom — its double doors facing out onto the terrace. A small room off the main hallway offers added space for storage and an alcove beside it contains a writing desk and chair. Wall décor is varied, with wood-framed etchings of the islets off the Corsican coast, miniature topographical ink drawings and a gaily-colored watercolor of the historic port of Calvi adorning the plain white walls.

The hotel complex is reached along a steep road leading directly up from downtown Calvi with plenty of open parking inside the main gates. Varied art work adorns the public areas, reflecting the interest of the hotel’s owners Marion and Jean-Pierre Pinelli, by hosting different artists regularly. Of particular note is the hotel’s Corsican Chef Reginensi, whose style combines pop art, graffiti and street art. This results in colorful modern collages, many of which pay homage to celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe, James Dean and Paul Newman.

Other works displayed included New York-based Jonone (John Andrew Perello), Corsican artist Toussaint Moufraggi, and Jak Espi whose sculpture in the lobby is an amusing, yellow-eyed life-size replica of the Pink Panther demurely splaying ample-sized breasts and holding an iPhone in his open palm. Artist Julien Marinetti has provided an amusing collection of multi-colored ducks entitled Kwack, that adorn the pool area in front of the restaurant.

Corsican weather is usually delightful, but at times storms can rush down from the mountains so La Villa offers three options for those interested in swimming in any weather: a heated interior pool, several outdoor pools and a private beach complete with lounge chairs. The beach is just a five-minute drive from the hotel complex towards Calvi. A gym, two small steam rooms, an open clay tennis court and a spa offering various treatments are also available on the property. 

La Villa is the proud owner of a Michelin star for its gourmet creations at La Table de Bastien, a glass-fronted area overlooking Calvi and the sea where breakfast is also served. Be sure to try the delicious Corsican coffee and the pain au chocolate and croissants over breakfast, especially divine when accompanied by maquis-based honey. For dinner, guests can choose a five-course tasting menu accompanied by various Corsican wines. Calvi is a haven of wine production with wineries such as Clos Culombu and Domaine d’Alziprato are only a few miles away.

Memorable dishes include the oeuf mollet frit, a poached egg served in a cappuccino of celery, mushrooms and black truffles; the Carpaccio of John Dory and spider crab flesh, with fennel, fresh coriander and shiso leaves; and the braised pigeon breast served with the confit of pigeon leg, porcini mushrooms and kadaif of offal and dried fruits. It being October and with autumn beckoning, dessert offerings were chestnuts and pear sorbet, roasted figs with citron (local lemons) and white cheese sorbet—undeniable proof of fine gourmet dining. One suggestion, however, is for the restaurant to offer a gourmet vegetarian option, something non-existent at this time.

Service at La Villa was efficient and welcoming, with Giovanni providing a warm smile while accommodating requests over the buffet breakfast; Mona giving insights into the various courses and wines over dinner; and the receptionist dealing with questions we had about the local area and the hotel’s history.

La Villa is a classic getaway retreat located discreetly amidst the sublime quiet of nature, offering sensory delights through a combination of rich, colorful foliage and panoramic views over the sea and surrounding mountains. (Tip: bring a pair of binoculars to fully enjoy the scenery.) With such a delightful base, exploring the old city of Calvi is easy and worth the effort — a stroll up the main shopping street Wilson Boulevard leads to the citadel, which offers wonderful views over the coast.