Photos Courtesy of Alto Atacama Desert Lodge & Spa
While Brazil has the Amazon, Northern Chile has Atacama — the expansive desert region in the north covering 40,000 square miles and filled with explosive geysers and throngs of flamingos. It is the arid equivalent of the Amazon and just as remarkable. Within the Atacama, secluded on the outskirts of the local village of San Pedro, is a resort that matches the enchantment of the desert wonder, the Alto Atacama Desert Lodge & Spa.
Slivered between the Catarpe Valley's creek and jutting terracotta-colored rocks that shroud the grounds with shade in summer's hot afternoons, sits this hidden gem. There's no sign to denote the resort's location along the dusty dirt road, but a massive wood-woven door opens up to welcome guests into the reception area. Views of the terraced restaurant and adobe-style rooms just past the open-air windows enticed me to stroll outside, where I spotted corrals of llamas and alpacas, heavy-hanging trees loaded with pomegranates and tomatoes, and the sweeping, crisp sky dotted with a volcano.
The resort's design, built with 90 percent local material and labor, also employs "Andescape," a landscape technique design created by Paris-trained Veronica Poblete. Local flora, agriculture, and natural elements make the grounds of the property feel almost village-like, an extension of the indigenous culture still prominent in the Atacama region.
Just as beautifully seamless as its design in the desert's natural setting, the resort's environmental impact is nearly untraceable. Last year the lodge won a coveted Sustainability award from the Chilean Tourism Board, the first and only in the San Pedro de Atacama region. The lodge has two waste management projects, one that uses composting and another that works directly with local community members to promote efficient recycling. A reverse osmosis water treatment plant is on property and used water is recycled for irrigation. The resort also generates its own electricity.
The property's Puri Spa offers an unusual array of treatments and houses seven small outdoor pools with views of the valley and vistas. The Altiplanic mud wrap uses locally-sourced clay and honey and ends with massage. In full, a blissfully hydrating experience to balance the dry climate. There's also a quinoa facial, based off the region's prize grain, and a Sabay Massage, aimed to promote life and longevity. The Sabay treatment uses "pindas," plump pouches filled with oils, nut essence, and herbs, which are applied like hot stones to the body.
This desert escape is usually quiet during the day and late afternoons, as most guests are out exploring the surreal desert playground. More than 35 excursions, each headed by a bi-lingual local guide and cheery driver, are offered through the hotel. From bobbing in the aquamarine salt waters of Laguna Cejar to enjoying a sunrise breakfast with geysers 14,000 feet above sea level, every excursion tends to offer an unusual, vibrant experience. During my stay, visiting the salt flats, which are the third largest ones in the world, was unforgettable as we watched flamingos glide overheard and toasted wine as we watched the surrendering sun dip beyond the horizon.
During the evenings, guests are encouraged to participate in expert-led stargazing. The region, nearly free of environmental pollution, rainfall, and city lights, is regarded as one of the world's top stargazing destinations. Appropriately so, the world's largest astronomical project, the Atacama Large Millimeter Array (ALMA), is headquartered here and even an untrained tourist can easily see why. The night's sky is brilliantly surprising, like a black velvet gown sprinkled with handfuls of crushed diamonds and shattered pearls. This lasting image is one that will forever be ingrained in our minds; a parting gift from The Alto Atacama Desert Lodge & Spa.
