La Signoria, a Relais & Châteaux hotel just outside the northwest Corsican town of Calvi, simply oozes old world charm—no surprise considering it was previously the 18th century Genoese estate of ‘La Paratella’ under Louis XV, later given to the Marquis Murat de la Serpriere. Taken over 25 years ago by Jean-Baptiste Ceccaldi and his wife, it has retained much of its authenticity while offering delightful touches of modern luxury.

Set amidst acres of rolling land speckled with a series of Adobe-style buildings, the five-star La Signoria sits under the shadow of the mountains near the Bonifato Valley. It’s just two miles from the azure-blue Mediterranean, where it has its own private beach (Signoria Mare). Entered along a short access road, a building slowly comes into view. Surrounded by Eucalyptus, palm, olive and pine trees, and rose bushes, it houses the reception area and bar with indoor-outdoor seating.

The bar facing the gardens is a quirky, attractive place to while away a few hours, with stain-glass windows in hues of bright red, blue and yellow, worn leather armchairs, a trodden wooden floor, and walls hand-painted in a mix of ochre, pale green and purple. A patina-style wood fireplace nearby and lampshades in various styles scattered about create a sense of colorful quirkiness.

A thick, leather-backed ‘Livre de Cave’ cocktail recipe book on an upright stand in the middle of the room contains more than 150 impressive concoctions made from Champagne, gin, vodka, tequila, whisky, calvados, cognac and Campari, all complied by drinks master, Nicholas Allain. They include a 1956 Glen Grant, with Cuban cigars as accompaniment. Outside, wicker chairs sit beside vivid red tables offering comfortable seating under the shadow of tall cypress trees.

Our ground-floor room was located directly across from the reception area, at the end of several in a row adjoining each other. A delightful, old-fashioned turn-key with latch permitted us entry to a short hallway with a separate bathroom and toilet either side, and provided ample cupboard and floor space for baggage. The bedroom was directly ahead with balcony windows granting clear views over the woodlands beyond.

Eclectic old world charm was abundant in the room furnishings, many of which one senses were in situ when the hotel was taken over and renovated, including a worn, but sturdy wood floor. The bathroom featured a classic, step-up enamel bath and twin deep-set wash-hand basins on a plain wood top. Interlinking lamps hung from the ceiling and a colorful '70s-era divan lay against one wall with a patina-style drinks table beside it. A longer writing table with different colored drawers stood in one corner, and there were matching bedside tables in retro style.

La Signoria earns points for a creatively-displayed and varied breakfast buffet, with a generous multitude of choices ranging from local wild strawberries and figs to poached bananas and pineapple; made-to-order omelets with cheese and rosemary; a selection of local cheeses and cold cuts; an array of pastries including versions of Corsican cheesecake; strong and flavorsome local coffee and more than five types of breads, such as the traditional variety made with chestnut flour. Breakfast can be eaten either inside 'La Palmeraie restaurant (where dinner is also served) or on the terrace. The problem with the latter are the hungry and extremely perseverant wasps (this was mid-October so goodness knows what it must be like in high summer).

La Palmeraie is located in a stand-alone building divided into two parts. One part is a bistro-style room, with circular tables, colorful chairs and a multitude of photographs on the walls depicting mainly cinematic celebrities (some of whom have visited the property). Adjoining it is a transformed conservatory, re-designed to give it the aura of the Art Nouveau era and painted in terracotta, honey cream, olive greens and sky-blue. Among the dinner highlights reflecting creativity and cuisine craftsmanship were a starter of pressed duck foie gras with veal sweetbreads skillfully incorporated within the block. This particular starter also allowed us to taste the flavorsome local Barbary figs accompanying the dish.

A main dish of sautéed veal with wild mushrooms, a meat Corsicans pride themselves on, is also well worth mentioning. A generous portion and pink without being bloody, it was so tender we almost didn't have to bother biting into it. No matter what starter or main dish you choose at La Palmeraie, however, you should still consider indulging in the wide selection of Corsican cheeses. In season, the restaurant boasts more than forty different types, both goat and sheep, some over thirty months old. We tried half a dozen, and if not for feeling full, would have tried even more.

As a whole, the hotel left us feeling like we had experienced a true Italian getaway with reminders of its history displayed throughout and contemporary amenities that allowed for a great combination of past and present.