If Hotel Thierry Drapeau is anything to go by, all hotels should be run by chefs. Stylish, spacious and airy, this four-star, 14-room boutique property, opened just last year in rural Vendée. It is located a half-hour drive from Nantes in the Pays de la Loire region of southwest France, and is a cross between a fine art gallery and contemporary accommodation par excellence.
Photo Courtesy of Hotel Thierry Drapeau
Highlighting its rural location,this Relais & Châteaux-member hotel sits along a leafy avenue with undulating fields on either side with a stream rambling through them. A classic, stone-walled chateau and short driveway lead to the hotel's chalk and glass exterior, with a resplendent olive tree squatting out front. While Hotel Thierry Drapeau occupies a quiet, rural location, it is a mere four-minute drive from the town of Saint-Sulpice-le-Verdon and within 12 miles of regional attractions such as Parc des Rochettes, Theatre de Thaile and Ponds Nature Park.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
The hotel and its companion restaurant, which is situated behind the walls of the Logis de la Chabotterie 500 yards away, are both located on important sites linked to the War in the Vendée. Fought between Royalists and Republicans during the French Revolution, it is where General Charette was captured in 1796.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
The interior décor, with an open-style design, is a kaleidoscope of brightly-colored furnishings and delightfully creative artwork, all encapsulated within a border of neutral tones on the ceiling, floor and walls. Soft, fuchsia-toned sofas, seats and armchairs; a tall, chrome statuette of a baker making pastry; and three, ceiling-high, silver vases grant but a brief insight into the eclectic art tastes of owner and two Michelin-star chef, Thierry Drapeau. Artists whose works are displayed include those of Jean-Alexandre Delattre, Cath Cousseau and L’atelier d’Elfrid.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
Decorating an open area near the reception desk is a series of tables and shelves displaying a range of food products, such as olive oil, vinaigrettes, ciders, organic flour, jars of vegetables and foie gras, both local as well as from other parts of France and other countries, including Spain. There are also wooden racks of fresh breads made in the hotel's kitchen, the first indication of the deep pride that the restaurant staff takes in their own products.
Photo Courtesy of Hotel Thierry Drapeau
There is also a glass-encased display cabinet nestled inside of which are delectable, finger-size squares, both light and dark varieties, and other assorted cocoa-based delicacies, from well-known Nantes-based chocolatier Vincent Guerlais, who has won the Meilleur Chocolatier Français award conferred by the Club des Croqueurs de Chocolat. The selection displayed in the hotel lobby is packaged specially for Mister Drapeau.
An open bar, with floor to ceiling windows looking on to the fields beyond, is located on the other side of the reception desk, with a glass-fronted wine cellar nearby.
Photo Courtesy of Hotel Thierry Drapeau
Our first floor room, reached up a short flight of stairs was of contemporary design — open and spacious, with a neutral color scheme of black, white and shades of gray. Furnishings were minimal with merely a television, a soft recliner, coffee table and a simple white writing table. The headboard was a feature in itself, built as a free-standing partition covered in velvet, with two egg-shaped, off-white reading lamps hanging from the ceiling either side. Rather than being housed in an enclosed room, the shower and washroom area occupied an open space adjoining the bedroom. A wooden patio outside, furnished with table and chairs, overlooks fields of buttercups, vegetable plots and a forest beyond.
Photo Courtesy of Hotel Thierry Drapeau
As befits a Michelin-star chef, food is the highlight of a stay at Hotel Thierry Drapeau, starting with the first meal of the day. Breakfast is hosted in an open space on the ground floor, at which a chrome, miniature statue of a chef stirring a pot stands guard. Natural light pours in from the floor-to-ceiling windows. Guests sit at small square tables on soft fuchsia chairs as breakfast is prepared in front of them in an open kitchen. The three-course meal includes French toast, cooked eggs and sausages with a cashew and hazelnut mix, accompanied by homemade produce such as bread, croissants, yogurt (with mousse-like texture, served with fresh fruit), cured ham, honey, jams and butter.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
Lunch and dinner are served in the separate restaurant at Logis de la Chabotterie, a restored bas-poitevin manor house, a five-minute walk away. Here, urban sophistication marries countryside rusticity, creating a cozy ambiance with whitewashed walls and bare, unvarnished rafters, ceiling and window panes complementing tall, gleaming silver lamps overlooking every table and quirky, sculptured wooden vegetables by Cousseau here and there.
Photo Credit: Columbia Hillen
Two options are offered to guests — the à la carte menu or the more comprehensive, 10-course Carte Blanche tasting one. While Chef Drapeau’s creations are complex, the titles of his dishes are a lesson in pure simplicity, with names like asparagus, egg, scallops, salmon, guinea fowl and duck. The asparagus dish, for example, is browned with marrow and ham of Vendée, truffle jelly, rosemary flower Mouron des oiseaux and savory cromesquis while a dessert called simply Lemon is a combination of tart, nougatine shortbread, creamy meringue, confit grapes, juniper berry crumble, gin and lemon thyme sorbet. Yes, the names may be sparse but their creation and presentation border on the surreal.
With such delicious food, a tranquil, rural landscape crossed by easy walking paths and a dramatic historical background, Hotel Thierry Drapeau checks off many of the boxes for those seeking a quaint, relaxing hideaway vacation.